By Robyn Hood – Tellington TTouch Instructor & Editor of TTEAM Connections.  First published in TTEAM Connections, January-March 2010.

One of the most unique aspects of the Tellington TTouch Method is its application to so many different animals. The bodywrap is one of those tools that can be used on a variety of species in many situations such as horses, dogs, cats, rabbits, giraffes, birds, reptiles, snakes and people, the changes may be subtle and sometimes dramatic. Many of our readers have used the bodywrap and in this article I want to show some variations since it is easy to fall into a habit of just using it one way.

There are different ideas on exactly how and why bodywraps work. The concept of giving the body a ‘hug’ of security may be one aspect; giving the body tactile and kinesthetic ‘feedback’ about what it is doing, is another. There is also the sensory perception aspect that Kathy Cascade wrote about several years ago. As a Physical Therapist as well as TTouch Instructor she wrote:

“To understand how this works, let’s take a very oversimplified look at the sensorimotor system. Our bodies take in information from our senses, including the well-known senses of sight, sound, smell, taste and touch (tactile system). We also have another sensory system that provides information about the position of our body parts that is known as the proprioceptive system.

The proprioceptive system is triggered by movement. Information from the tactile and proprioceptive system is sent along nerves to the spinal cord and on to a part of the brain that registers the information, which is known as the somatosensory cortex. What is interesting about this area is that some parts of the body have a greater representation than others. For in- stance, the face and mouth have a much greater number of sensory nerve endings, and a larger area of the somatosensory cortex is devoted to those body parts. For people, the hand and fingers are also more prominent, and it is no surprise that we are way better at using our fingers than our toes!

Once the sensory information is processed, the brain then sends signals back to the muscles for postural control, and movement. This constant two-way exchange of information is what allows both people and animals to make coordinated movements, and perform complex physical tasks.           

By using a bodywrap, we simply intensify the sensory information going to the brain from the parts of the body the wrap contacts (through the touch sys- tem) and the proprioceptive system when the animal moves while wearing the wrap. The response to this enhanced sensory information is often improved balance, coordination, and/or movement. Occasionally lameness or asymmetrical movement may also be altered.”

I will go through the how’s basic wraps on a variety of animals but also go beyond the basics to give you more ideas of con-figurations you can try. These are only limited by your imagination and just apply the principal that it should be just snug enough to stay in place, taking about 10% of the stretch out of he wrap. It is about giving feedback to the body rather than being used for support.

 

 

Quarter Wrap

Place the wrap, about 1/3 of the way from the end, in the middle of the dog’s chest. Cross the wrap over the back and bring the longer end under the dog’s belly and tie it loosely or pin it, depending on the size of the dog. This is generally the easiest for a dog to accept in the beginning.

Half-Bodywrap

Place the centre of the wrap at the centre of the dog’s upper chest. Bring the ends up on either side to cross over the shoulders, then down behind the front legs, crossing under the belly, and up to the centre of the back. Fasten the ends with a Baby pin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Variation: As the dog adjusts, pull the pinned portion back to the lower spine. Later pull it back around the hips at the top of the tail. These adjustments provide some of the benefits of a Full-Bodywrap and help the dog accept that configuration.

Variation: Place the Half-Bodywrap over a T-Shirt.

Advantage: Because it doesn’t go over the hindquarters dogs find it easier to accept; it’s a good way to begin to bring awareness into the body. Therefore it’s great for dogs that are shy, concerned about their Hindquarters, or wild and you just want to get something on them! Al- ways a good way to start if you’re unsure!

Disadvantage: Very few except that it doesn’t go over the hindquarters but is possible to extend into the hind- quarters with a second wrap later.

 

 

 

 

 

Cross Your Heart Wrap:

This wrap starts with the middle of the wrap over the top of the dog’s shoulder, comes down to the front of the chest; cross the wrap between the front legs and bring up behind the elbows of the opposite side. If you have extra wrap, as shown, take the wrap across the back, down the barrel, cross under the belly and attach near the spine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This wrap is a great way to connect the front & back and integrate the belly. It generally requires two wraps that are Velcroed together. Hold a short end and lay across the chest. Cross wraps over the dog’s back and take the long end around the dog’s rear end, under the tail.

Bring back up to the top of the shoulders, weave the wrap through the front part of the wrap, which will hold it in place, and then bring the wrap under the dog’s belly and fasten near the shoulder.

Because this wrap doesn’t go between the dog’s legs it is often easier for him to accept, however, it is best suited to dogs with tails so it doesn’t just slide up.

Headwraps - these wraps morphed out of face wraps. When a wrap was too much for a dog over his nose we just slid it up to the dog’s forehead. Surprisingly the response was a very calm dog who had no problem with the wrap. Like with the horses, it seems like it creates a ‘thinking cap’ and helps focus and calm. Ideally a 1” elastic wrap (cut a 2” down the middle and stitch, if you have a sewing machine), or a 2” folded in half. Lay the middle of the wrap across the forehead, cross under the chin and then tie behind the dog’s ears. Be sure it is not too tight but stays on comfortably.

Shown is a variation that crosses in between the dog’s ears. Practice putting the wraps on a Stuffed Toy dog (as shown here) until you become proficient. The headwrap also helps dogs who carry tension between the ears.

 

 

Full Bodywraps

Front of Thigh: Take the centre of the wrap, place on the chest just under the front of the dogs neck, pull the ends up over & across the back, then between the 2 back legs from the front of the leg (without crossing – means pup can still do his business!) – and up by the side of the tail and return along the back. Pin to the bandage where it crosses the back.

Tip: If you have slippage near the buttocks, you might want to secure the two pieces of elastic a second time closer to the tail. Be careful not to be on top of the tail, particularly if it’s a dog that already has confidence problems.

Variation: You might want to rather go down the back and over the buttocks first, then down next to the tail, under the leg from back to front and finally up the side of the body and pin on top to the two pieces of bandage going already down the body.

Advantage: Less likely to slip down the legs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

= =Legwraps.= =

You can use a single wrap over the shoulders and wrapped down the legs and tucked into itself. You can also add one to another wrap or do a diagonal wrap down the legs. Leave on for a few minutes and allow the dog to move through some obstacles if possible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

= =Racing Stripe= =

(aka Debby Wrap): (named after Debby Potts) Use a single length of elastic or two bandages pinned/ sewn together. Holding one short end, tie a loose overhand knot around the dog’s neck OR pin the pieces together. Pull the rest of the bandage straight down the spine to the base of the tail. At the right side of the tail (over the buttock), bring the bandage down inside the right rear leg and toward the front of the leg, then up and across the small of the back to the left side. This creates a flank-to-flank crosspiece.

Thread the wrap through the inner thigh of the left hind leg, front to back, and up the rear on the left side of the tail. Tuck the wrap under the flank-to-flank crosspiece and bring it up to the neck [if you have enough wrap] and pin where the wrap connects just behind the neck already. Pin at this point.

Tip:  Using a pin rather than a knot will make the wrap hug the body better.

Tip: If your wrap it too short, fasten pin where the “cross- piece” goes over the lower back

Tip: If you have extra wrap, you can extend to under the chest. Advantages: This wrap stays on the dogs rear end easier and can help support older dogs in the hips.

Disadvantage: Be careful with dogs with bad HD. It’s important to watch a dog with a wrap on and see if he walks easier or is it worse.

 

= =Thundershirt= =

This is a new product that we have been using for the past six months. They are easy to put on with Velcro to fasten them and come in 7 or 8 sizes. They are very effective for thunderstorms and noise sensitivity. They are available at the Canadian office or through www.thundershirt.com

 

T-Shirts

This is a way of giving your dog some sense of its body without needing an elastic bandage and it sometimes easier for certain dogs. Use an appropriate size T-shirt, such as a child’s T-shirt for small dogs, an adult medium or large for mid-size dogs, and extra large for large dogs.

Place the T-shirt over the dog’s head backward, with the front of the shirt facing up. Put the dog’s front paws through the armholes. Take the loose material near the hem and gather it into a knot or secure with a scrunchie at the waist on top of the back.

  Variation: Cut an X in a plastic can lid, thread the hem through, and pull it comfortably tight. The lid will hold the fabric in place.

Advantage: some dogs will tolerate this and not the bandage; you probably have one in your cupboard already; it doesn’t look like your dog has an injury!

Disadvantage: Depending on the style of T-shirt it can be difficult to put on the dog.

Bodywraps for Cats

It is often necessary to ‘chunk down’ the process when putting a bodywrap on a cat. It is not unusual for a cat to lose his balance or lay down when a wrap is first applied. I have found that if you follow a few steps this can be easier. A 2“ wide wrap is generally a size. Start with the wrap just laid over the cat’s back, leave it on a few moments and then remove. If your cat likes treats you can let him take one off of the wrap.           

Then, place the wrap across the cat’s chest, bring over the back and just let it lay there. If the cat has a strong response, such as falling on his side or freezing you can just take it off or do a few TTouches and then remove it.           

Depending on the situation you can either just wait a few minutes before reapplying, or wait until another session. If the cat is reasonably accepting then I generally put on the Quarter wrap - as shown with the dogs and tie it loosely.

Some cats will just lie down and seem quite comfortable. Other times I will encourage them to move a little while wearing the wrap.

I have had a variety of responses from cats but find that the more cats I put them on the more easily I find that the cats are accepting them.

If you are using the wrap as a preparation for a harness be sure that the cat can move easily wearing the wrap and you can then put a harness over the wrap for short periods of time as an introduction.

Wraps on Cats can help with:

· Hyper, overactive cats · Shyness · Introducing new animals to house    · Spraying & litterbox issues · Neurological issues · Prepare for harness

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The harness has been put on over the wrap and the cat is being encouraged to move over some different surfaces. When a cat is wearing a harness be sure to make it a pleasant experience and start by just following the cat while you hold the leash. Premier makes a great cat harness that fits well and has a light bungey-like leash that makes it easier to encourage the cat.

 

Bodywraps on Reptiles:

It is not very common to use a bodywrap with reptiles but I have used them with an iguana to help prepare for a harness and one practitioner used it with her Bearded dragon that was suffering from constipation. We also used one on a snake with, what was thought to be, a neurological disorder. It will also give an animal a new experience.

Photos: This bearded dragon lives with Willeke Koppelaar in Holland and was very constipated. Wearing the wrap helped to speed up the process.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even on a Giraffe!

Amy Phelps works at the Oakland Zoo and uses a bodywraps on young giraffes to help give them a new sense of their bodies.

 

 

Wraps for Rabbits

Introduce a wrap to a rabbit with the same steps as with a cat. You can also use a folded wrap to do belly lifts with a rabbit. This is helpful in helping them accept handling.

A one-inch wrap is ideal for rabbits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos above show a half wrap and the photo above shows a full wrap in the configuration of the Racing Stripe as described for dogs.